On the Road to Rajshani

Leaving the jungle like countryside, we headed back to the crowded highway with the chorus of big beeping trucks jamming the highway with their shipments of produce from the fertile north to the rest of Bangladesh.  We stopped at a small weaving village along the way where electric machines run by humans are replacing the old way of doing things slowly by hand.  We were met again with a group of kids following us trying to figure out who we were and why we were there.  We continued our journey over the Brahmaputra River.

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We stopped at a small village of Puthia which has remnants of an old terracotta Hindu temple that is slowly being restored from being destroyed by Pakistan with the war for indepdence in the 70’s.  We then ended our day getting to Rajshani which sits right on the banks of the Ganges.

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Dhaka

Dhaka is a massive city of about 18-20 million people.  As any big city the traffic is always a problem, however the many rickshaws (about 2 million of them) help alleviate the traffic just a little.  Dhaka is divided into two parts, the old city and the new city.  The new city lined with modern hotels with all the American fast food chains is where most of the business people and diplomats live or stay. 

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The old city which is the colorful part of Dhaka is the place we spent most of our time.  We walked up and down the streets photographing the people and the vibrant colors all around us.  Going to the river port was amazing as many people were lined up ready to take boats to their villages for the weekends. 

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A walk through the rickshaw street to see the massive amount of rickshaws was amazing as they seem to be endless….as well was the oldest street in Dhaka with its maze of alleys…

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 A walk through the local market with instead of people yelling at you “NO PHOTOS”, we were hounded by people “TAKE MY PHOTO”, was defiantly the highlight of the day.

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Dahka by Night

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The Countryside road to Kushtia

As we start off our morning on the deserted banks of the Ganges, we moved to a SW direction of the country to the city of Kushtia. 

With more fertile farmland that anyone can imagine in one country, most of the people in this area seem to farm Mangos as a profession and the towns have small markets set up everywhere.  The photos of the people in each of the small villages was amazing and so was the landscape.  People are still very friendly and give a stare when you wave at them.

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We had a chance to stop by the tomb of Lalon Shah who is one of the most famous philosophers and folk singers in Bangladesh.  We had a chance to hear some of his music at an academy that is still run by some people who follow him as it was amazing to hear the music and see how much people really adore him almost 130 years later.

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Beijing and the (Un) Restored Part of the Great Wall

Another successful trip with students as I added two more bucket list items- Beijing and the Great Wall of China.  I would like to thank CCC Travel for this great trip.  They did an amazing job with the program, organization, and food for everyone involved.  They seem to have it down when it comes to not spending to much time in one place or make activities boring.  Thank you Iris and CCC Travel for this amazing program and look forward to working with you again in the future. 

Mr. Bill Zander has been doing this trip for 4 years now and it keeps getting better and better.  The students and chaperones had an amazing time, and your careful attention to detail has made this a life long experience that no one will ever forget. 

We took 56 students from our school for a few days trip to see the sites of Beijing.  I never had very high expectations of Beijing, but I can honestly say I was pleasantly surprised at what the city had to offer.  The food was some of the better I have had in a big city in China and the sites (on the day we were there) were not busy.

The Forbidden City had been used as an imperial palace for about 500 years.  I was in pure awe at the size of this structure which would constitute a downtown area for most small cities.  A walk through it takes you back to the time of the Ming Dynasty which was the first to use it. 

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We then went to one of the old neighborhoods (Hutong) of Beijing.  The area where we were concentrated in seeing is Xuanwu hutong 宣武胡同.    We got on bicycle carts which were run by the local people as they took us around the narrow streets of this small neighborhood.  With streets that were much like alleyways, you can see people that had lived in the neighborhood for their whole lives and inherited it from family members before them.  We were able to go into one of the nicer houses in the area which had two elderly couple living there and they talked about their lives there.

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Our next stop was Tienanmen Square and got to see the Monument to the People’s Heroes, the Great Hall of the People, the National Museum of China, and the Mausoleum of Mao Zedong.   The Gate of the Heavenly Palace is probably one of the most iconic images here with a picture of Mao Zedong hanging in the middle.  It was surreal to actually be in this place, because of how many things in Chinese history that happened here..

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Great Wall Hiking and Camping

The Great Wall of China is one of the most recognizable images in the world today.  It is one of the many sites that China is famous for and has a history that spans back thousands of years to before the Qin Dynasty.   Over thousands of years, it has been fortified and rebuilt by many of the dynasties as the existing wall was mostly built and restored by the Ming Dynasty.

The images that you have seen with thousands of people each day crowding the walls is only one part of the wall, which is restored as is mostly a tourist attraction.  The pictures you will see is a remote part of the wall that is not restored, thus you will see no tourists and very few people if any.  This part of China is Huailai between Beijing and Hebei ( 怀来 在北京和河北交界, ). 

We took students hiking around 10 km which was mostly up and down hill along the part of the wall that looks like it did possibly hundreds of years ago.  Most of the stones were out of place and not restored with plants and other brush growing out from its sides. 

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We then camped along a part of the wall in the middle of the wilderness where the students set up their tents and got to experience a bonfire party along with grilled lamb and vegetables and marshmallows.  We woke up early in the morning to see the sunrise and continued to hike up a very treacherous path to a more restored yet very isolated part of the wall. 

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I believe in the next few years that this part of the wall will be restored thus bringing in hundreds of tourists that will ruin the tranquility and serenity of this beautiful part of the wall.

Inner Mongolia

From Grasslands, to Genghis Khan to Deserts

Inner Mongolia is an autonomous region in the north of China that straddles the country of Mongolia.  With its vast grasslands dotted with yurts and its vast oceans of endless dune deserts, it would be easily mistaken for being Mongolia. 

Hohhot is the capital of this autonomous region, and is a very beautiful city with about 3 million people.  There is plenty to do there as they have some beautiful monasteries along with an old walking street that had beautiful statues of peoples life in the past.   The Museum which is devoted to Inner Mongolia history through the years from Stone Age to Present was a magnificent tribute to the many peoples that have traversed this great land. 

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Going to the grasslands, we were welcomed by the site of horses just about everywhere as the Mongolian culture respects horses from the days of Genghis Khan.  In this sparsely populated region, yurts dot the grasslands as far as the eye can see. 

We were able to see a Mongolian performance of their history complete with horses and actors and it did not disappoint.  Staying in a Yurt was something that has always been on my to-do list and I finally got to stay in one. 

The food in this region just like the other northern regions of China is very meat based(which delights me) and heavy compared to the other regions of China.  The winters here are cold and hard so eating a high fat protein like Lamb is pretty essential to their survival.  Even in the summer months, the nights are somewhat chilly as you will have to wear some pants and a jumper coming here.

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An amazing wonder in this region is their desert.  Looking something like what you would see in Namibia, the size and sheer magnitude really impressed me, even though I saw a small part.  You can do plenty of things in the desert as they have it set up somewhat like an “amusement park.”  They have sand boarding, zip-lining (if you weigh less than 80 kilos), acrobatic shows, Bactrian Camel Riding, and many other sports going on there.  I had a blast just being back in a desert environment and loved walking around in the sand and soaking in the sun. 

An interesting note is you can stay at a hotel in the desert and pay an inclusive price and get everything.  While I did not stay in it, I sure will next time as it is supposed to be a modern marvel and looks like a giant lotus flower. 

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Inner Mongolia, I will definitely be back to visit you…..

An Extra Day added to the island will never hurt anyone

When I went to Goqui Island in October, I fell in love with the Island.  Not because of the abandoned fishing village overgrown with vines all over the houses, but because of the simplicity of the island.  I decided to return in the Spring to see it again and it just keeps getting better and better.  To top it all off, we were stuck on the island for an extra day, because of fog not allowing the ferries to travel, so we got to stay in peace and relaxation for another day.  Even though I missed work, I am not complaining….

A nice walk through the island, you will see people hard at work fixing fishing nets and the great scenery of this archipelago, not to mention the serene relaxing atmosphere of just staring out into the great blue sea….

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The star attraction of this small island is of course the abandoned village on a hidden side of the island.  This was a booming fishing town in the 1980’s then in the blink of an eye, progress hits China and all of the fishermen and their families left for greener pastures in the cities or on the other side of the island, leaving this wonderful place to be swallowed up by mother nature.  With its crumbling buildings and vine covered houses, this place could be a site for a horror movie.  But as mass tourism will start to hit this beautiful place in the next few years, so will all of the serenity and isolation that makes the island beautiful….

If Any student from the APCOGO Class in 2022-2023 sees this, please email me immediately.

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Thousand Island (Qiandao) Lake

This area which is a couple of hours from Hangzhou, has some of the most amazing scenery in China.  The Valley was flooded in 1959 to make way for a Dam project, thus creating the man made lake with tiny islands all around.  There is an underwater ancient city that was buried in there that you can take diving expeditions to.  The weather when I went was not exactly the best as it was rainy and cloudy, but the area offered some magnificent scenery and fresh air.  This is definitely a place that I will head back to when the weather is good as some of the lookout points are beautiful.

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I had a chance to return a little over a month later to 1000 Island lake in hopes for better photos and better weather.  Seems like it all remained the same….

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Rainbow Mountains

A geological phenomena that lives up to its hype (and the long journey)

Rainbow Mountain is a trip that I wanted to do since before I moved to China and was number one on my bucket list of things I wanted to do here.  With expectations so high, it would be easy to be disappointed; however, the area in Gansu Province surprised me even more with the beauty. All I cared about was seeing the Rainbow Mountains, however there are many more manmade and geological wonders around this province which makes it an attraction for people from all walks of life.  After taking a three hour flight, a half hour train, then a 3+ hour high speed train, we finally arrived in the late afternoon to the sparsely populated Gansu Province.

Pictures of Food and Dinner Fun

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I can now say for certain that the more north you go in China, the meatier and better the food will definitely get!!  You are more than likely to find at any restaurant here, pork ribs, lamb, yak (which is very good), as well as an assortment of vegetables cooked in very spicy peppers.  We went to a very typical restaurant in which when you enter, you have to drink a shot of Baiju (liquor that is far from descent), then at the end of the meal, they bring you shots and they keep singing until you stop taking shots as they go around the tables pouring them and pouring them until your face cringed….

Big Buddha Monastery

We were treated to a temple in the city with a Giant Buddha that is 34.5 meters long and 7.5 meters wide between it shoulders.  The complex was a typical Buddhist complex with many smaller temples and a small museum.  This is China’s largest reclining Buddha and the largest architectural relic in Gansu Province.  Unfortunately we were not able to take photos inside, but we just marveled at the sheer beauty.

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Ice Valley Geographic Park

This park was nominated as the one of the top ten geographical magical wonders by National Geographic Magazine, and lies between 1500 and 2500 meters above sea level.  You can definitely feel the burn in your lungs as you are hiking through the formations on a well laid path.  It definitely looks and feels like you were are on another planet and the formations are awe inspiring to look at.  It didn’t hurt that snow capped mountains were nestled in the background either.   One person brought up the fact at how fun it would be to camp overnight in the area.  The pictures below are worth 1001 words:

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Mati Grotto Temples

An hour out of Zhangye City is an awe inspiring spectacle of Tibetan and Chinese Buddhist Grottos that are built into the mountain.   Nestled around snow capped mountains and dating back to 1600 years ago (before the fall of the Western Roman Empire), these cave dwellings offer an insight into the storied past of the spread of Buddhism.  Getting up into the caves requires a little bit of work and maneuvering as the passage ways are very small and the stairs are very steep.  A magnificent view from outside will show just how special these caves are as they were built into the side of mountains.  Unfortunately, during the Cultural Revolution, a lot of the statues were destroyed, but the sight of these magnificent wonders is something that you will never forget…..

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Rainbow Mountains

Rainbow Mountains lived up to its expectations.  These geological wonders are a UNESCO heritage site and get their color from the different minerals that are in the rock and sand.  This was a perfect day to go as the sun was out and everything was shining on mountains.  Going to different points around the park, you can see the different types of rolling hills as well as the even lines of different colors.  There was not a lot of tourists there and the long lines were at a minimum as we were able to hit all of the lookout points in good time.  This is definitely a place I would return to, as there is so much to see and do around this “sparsely populated” province in China, sparsely populated but full of character and sightseeing….

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Water Town and Rapeseed Flowers

A few hours from Shanghai there is a very popular ancient water town called Tongli.  It is referred to as the “Venice of the East”.  With a history of more than a 1000 years adorned by ancient bridges, residential houses, and gondolas in the canals, it is no wonder this place will remind any traveler of Venice, Italy.  Walking around the town you will see the many shops of people selling souvenirs or trinkets along with restaurants and cafes everywhere.  This is an ideal place to spend a weekend, just relaxing and taking photos, as the many guesthouses offer sanctuary from the hectic city life in China. 

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A quick ride from the ancient town is an island with a beautiful temple.  Away from all the sounds of the city, this is an ideal place to sit and relax and enjoy the great outdoors (unless there are mobs of tourists which there was not the day I want).  The reflections of the temple on the water was magnificent as the colors of all the trees in bloom…

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As you head back to Shanghai, you will see fields upon fields of the beautiful rapeseed (crazy name I know) flower as the springtime is the season they are in bloom.  No better way to enjoy them than to get out and run around in them…

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The Shaolin Monks and the Buddha Grottoes

No doubt you have seen them on television or movies and have heard about their regimented training techniques.  The Shaolin monks live and train in Henan Province in a huge complex where they practice Zen Buddhism. Even though this is not a tourist site you would normally visit on a trip to China, it is in my mind one of the most important in Chinese as well as martial art history. 

This was something that I have always wanted to see, since growing up I watched and heard about many of their mythical feats such as throwing a needle through a pane of glass and popping a balloon on the other side. 

Taking a rather nice overnight sleeper train for 9 hours from Shanghai to Luoyang, we were first greeted with a UNESCO site called the Longman Grottoes.  Perched along the Yi River, these caves offer some excellent examples of Chinese Buddhist art.  Tens of thousands of carved statues of Buddha and his disciples are seen in small caves in this area.  The only downside here was cold and rain which limited photography, but it was still an awe inspiring site, never to be missed.

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After the grottoes the old town of Luoyang was the stop.  I would of liked to stay around there the whole day, but rain and cold limited what we could do.  The old town is nestled in a bustling city with a lot of tall buildings and chaos.  This old town is what a lot of people probably think of when they think of China and the streets are small filled with shops and different types of street food including fried scorpions and crickets!!!  The local meat soup here was one of the best soups I have had in China and the small narrow alleyways made for some great photos!!!!  Sometimes you cant control the rain though.

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What trip is complete without some Tai Chi in the park with locals.  In many Asian movies or shows you see Asian people as well as foreigners in huge groups in the park practicing this slow moving martial arts for defense training and exercise.  This is no different than what you see on TV, except we experienced it right in front of our faces. 

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As many of the Monks start training from a young age, we went to one of the many schools set up in the area to see kids as young as it looked at 10 to put on a performance.  It was by no means a fancy place which made it that much more intriguing to watch as the students put on a performance for us and showed us what they could do.  Seeing one of the students break a wooden block with his hand is always a bonus as well as people taking self defense lessons…

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The last stop on this whirlwind trip was the Shaolin Monestary which is located in Dengfeng is to this day the main and oldest school of Shaolin training to this day, dating back approximately 1500 years. Both the monastery and the Pagoda Forest which houses some of the monks dating back 1300 years are UNESCO sites. The Pagoda Forest were built about 1200 years ago and some of the remains are of the top Shaolin Monks through history.  We were able to see a performance of the monks training and were not disappointed.  Some of them train for shows or movies while others spend their whole life training just because they want to.  The complex was huge as you could easily spend a day walking around there.  We were even able to see the needle through the pain of glass popping a balloon which is perhaps their most famous feat!!!

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THE PAGODA FOREST

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Hangzhou Longjing Village Tea Garden

Its always good to get out of Shanghai, even for just a day.  I had a chance to go up in the hills about three hours drive from Shanghai for a hike across a beautiful tea plantation and through some stunning scenery.  Walking through villages, you see people hanging up dried meats and fish in order to preserve them.  This area seems to be a hot spot for wedding photography as I counted at least 7 people doing their photos for their weddings. 

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One Island, Endless are the possibilities…..

Sri Lanka is a place that has been high on my list to travel to for sometime.  I have always said that any place that has oceans and mountains hours from each other is bound to have delicious food (Vietnam, Ecuador, Greece, etc).  This statement defiantly applies to Sri Lanka. 

Not only is the food spectacular, but the scenery on all parts of the island I traveled to was breathtaking.  From Oceans, to Mountains, to jungles to rice fields, you will see it all!!!!  A big reason of why I traveled here was for the wildlife.  Udawalawe and Yala National Parks are some of the best national parks on the island and definitely did not disappoint.  Whale watching on the coastal city of Mirissa was another activity that I wanted to do as well as staying a night up in the mountain country.  The over abundance of Toque Macaque Monkeys on the island was overwhelming, as I have always wanted to photograph them and observe their behavior which I did at different points on the island. 

I used a company to organize my accommodations and bookings, however my driver on this trip was absolutely amazing and he organizes stuff also.  His name is Dananjaya and his knowledge of the island and where to go is quite impressive.  He can book you in whatever class of hotel you want from 3 star all the way up to luxury and can help you get any safaris or tickets you need booked.  The best way to reach him is on whatsapp and his number is +94 77 440 49 97. 

Dananjaya- Quite possibly the best driver I have had!!!

Some of the activities and places I did are listed below:

Udawalawe National Park- Elephants, Elephants, and more Elephants

Mirissa- The Best Place for Whale Watching

Mulkirigala Temple aka Monkey Temple aka Kevin Roy’s Monkey Temple

Yala National Park- Highest Concentration of Leopards in the world

Nuwara Eliya- Mountain Tea Growing Region of Sri Lanka

Kandy- Temple of the Tooth and UNESCO City

Toque Macaque Road Monkeys aka Kevin Roy’s Monkeys

I believe that Toque Macaque monkeys are some of the best monkeys to photograph and observe.  That is why anytime I would see them on the side of the road or while hiking, I would stop for a while to sit and take photos of them as their features and mannerisms are very human like.  This page is dedicated to all them with their crazy hair and mannerisms…

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A UNESCO city that holds a very important Buddhist Temple

Kandy is one of Sri Lanka’s best known attractions for both foreigners and locals.  It is strategically set between three mountain ranges and is known as the gateway to the hill country.  It was not easy in previous times to attack it for invaders because of its location. 

I spent an afternoon walking around the endless mazes of alleys and streets in this beautiful little town.  A lake at the center of town is where you can find many people just relaxing and enjoying the day.  You may also get lucky and find some Toque Macaque monkeys in the alleys, up to their usual monkey business.

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The heart of Kandy is the “Temple of the Tooth Relic.”  As the story goes about 2500 years ago, one of Buddha’s teeth was brought here from India.  It was said that the possessor of the tooth had the right to rule the country.  It is kept in a gold casket and stored in the building around very tight security.  The temple has many paintings and statues of the Buddha and is one of the most colorful places I have seen.  There are many people that come here to worship daily and at the right time (morning and evening), you can see the drumming ceremony in which the window opens for the viewing of the gold casket which has the tooth inside. 

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The Mountains of Sri Lanka produce some of the best tea in the world

As I wanted to see as much of Sri Lanka as possible, I decided to go to the tea region up in the highlands of Sri Lanka.  Now I know why the British had an interest here as they have some of the best tea in the world!!!! 

Driving through the mountains and the idyllic countryside you run across waterfalls, monkeys and endless amounts of small villages.  The place i stayed for the night had some great food and great accommodations and I would happily spend a week in this place with the view of the town.  The Rock Hotel, is perched up on a hill overlooking the city with spectacular sunrises.  The hotel is about 30 minutes before the tea plantations and can be considered a gateway to the tea country. 

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Driving to the plantation and beyond is a relaxing experience with endless mountains of tea plants and tea ladies picking the leaves (although the fields were mostly empty that day as it was a Sunday).

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A national park boasting the highest leopard concentration in the world

Any photographer or safari goer loves a good chance to spot leopards out in the wild.  Unfortunately for us, these animals are very solitary and are seldom seen.  In all my safari’s in Africa, I have only seen two leopards that were up in trees resting which they usually do during the day. 

I thought my luck had again run out as I took a full day 14 hour safari here without a single leopard spotting.  The next day I took a half day safari and saw a leopard that quickly jumped into the bush and went inside the jungle.  An hour or so before my safari ended I struck a bit of luck as my Hilux jeep went over a small hill and sure enough a leopard was crossing the road.  I only saw him for 30 seconds or so but was able to snap a few pictures before he went into the bush.  I wish sometimes they would just stay still under a tree, but that is why spotting them in so challenging….

First Leopard on the ground I have seen:

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The animals of Yala of course do not stop with leopards as it is perched up against the ocean with jungles and watering holes.  The scenery is stunning at all hours of the day and again just like Udawalawe it reminds me of Africa.  Some of the other animals i spotted and/or photographed were:  Wild Hare, Peacock, Crocodile, Banded Stork, Spotted Deer, Mongoose, Grey Langur, Sri Lankan Jungle Bird, Buffalo (mating), Hornbill, Monitor, Scops Owl, Elephant, Wild Boar, and of course Toque Macaque.

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A Temple made famous by my friend Kevin Roy’s Monkey Photo

Ever since one of my best friends Kevin Roy took this picture some years back at the Mulkirigala Temple, I have always wanted to go….

Nicknamed “Spock” this monkey has had been an inside joke among some of my group of photography friends from Cairo for a long time.

The temple itself is an ancient Buddhist Temple.  It has been built on a 675 foot natural high rock, surrounded with another four rocks. It has numerous paintings inside on the walls and of course laying Buddha statues in the different parts.  On the top of the rock is a beautiful little Buddhist shrine with a Priest that blesses you and it has a great panorama view of the entire area with the endless jungles. 

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Of course the reason why I went here was not exactly for the temple, but was to see the monkeys!!!!  Only found in Sri Lanka, the Toque Macaque monkeys have an interesting face and different hairdos.  I had fun photographing them not just here, but all over the island.  I just wish they would get out in the sun more and stay a little still as they were mostly in the shade…

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Best Place for Whale Watching!!!

While Marissa is known as a backpacker destination as well as a nice beach, I went there for the whale watching and decided like I usually always do in going to the beach. 

We spent hours out at sea and while no whales breached the water, we did spot about ten of them in different parts of the ocean.  You always have to keep your eyes out as you need to see where the blowhole blows air and water up, followed by where you can see their backs out of the water.  I believe most of the whales we saw were Blue Whales and it was a sight that anyone should experience once in their life…

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A national park that boasts a high concentration of elephants

For a great and relaxing place to stay here is Nil Diya Mankada.  This Safari Resort may be one of the nicest places I have stayed while doing safaris.  I recommend this to anyone, even spending a few days there!!!!

First stop in Sri Lanka was Udawalawe NP which is famous for the Sri Lankan Elephants.  Taking a couple of safaris here, it was not easy at first to spot them, then you will see a mass amount of them.  I had my own safari jeep to make my photo taking easier instead of cramming six people with me.  I saw quite possibly a baby elephant that was no more than two weeks old that could barely walk and was still trying to learn his place among the other elephants….

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The natural scenery of this park reminded me of something in Africa with watering holes and birds just about everywhere.  It was hard to spot other animals, however some of the animals and birds I saw were:  Land Monitor Lizard, Elephants (of course), Buffalo, Peacocks, Changeable Hawk Eagle, Toque Macaque, Hornbill, Grey Langur, Crocodile, Jackal, Twin Bee eater, Butel Bee Eater, Painted Stork, Lapwing, and Queen Bee Eater.

Natural Scenery:

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Other Animals and Birds:

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An amazing country with everything you can imagine

India is an amazing country with just about every landscape imaginable and a rich and vibrant history.  I had the opportunity to explore different parts of this wonderful country to learn more about it.  My main focus besides seeing the major sites like the Taj Mahal and Delhi was to view and photograph the wildlife seen here in a few of the national parks.  People sometimes associate the tiger with India, but not a lot of people know that this is the last place in the world you can find the Asiatic Lion.  There are also tons of monkeys birds and other wildlife seen through the different national parks which did not disappoint.  The scenery and people are colorful and amazing and my time here was well spent and am happy to share these experiences….

Delhi- A big city with a lot of chaos and color

Monkey Park in Delhi

On the Road- Photos of people, places, and things

Katputli Colony in Delhi

Jaipur-Forts, Colorful People, and Monkeys!!

Ranthambore and Kaladeo National Parks- A trip to see the elusive Tiger and rare birds

Agra- Taj Mahal and Agra Red Fort- A wonder of the world

Gir National Park- LAST ASIATIC LIONS IN THE WORLD!!

Bandhavgarh National Park- Tigers, Tigers, and More Tigers

Kanha National Park